Jungle Beach, Vietnam – This is what you are looking for!

Welcome to Jungle Beach.  Your newest favourite spot in South East Asia.  A paradise hand crafted by one of Canada’s own, Sylvio LaMarche, a glib yet easy going former Quebec/BC resident.  As he says, he’s from Canada, so he values space and free water, both of which are in plentiful supply at Jungle Beach.  In fact, Sylvio one ups himself in that regard, with ice cold fresh squeezed lime water available all day.  His staff will even make the rounds at mid afternoon to dispense a refreshing snack of cool watermelon or palmelo to wherever you are currently lounging on the property – and will also come around at meal times to let you know food is being served so you don’t miss out!

free and easy vietnam

This massive and deserted beach can keep you busy doing nothing for days.

Jungle Beach is an anomaly in Vietnam – a secluded beach off the beaten backpacker route, quaint bamboo huts, and fresh homecooked meals taken together as a family.  This is far from the norm in Vietnam, where travel agents are either in cahoots with the big tourist towns or are merely uncomprehending of the adventure most modern backpackers seek – the adventure off the well worn path.  Jungle Beach more than compensates for this lack of adventurism, with plenty of hikes to do in the surrounding wilderness that puts the Jungle in Jungle Beach.  Sylvio has done extensive work protecting some vulnerable primate species and has been recognized by the Vietnamese government and several international agencies for his efforts. He will gladly point out trails to hidden waterfalls, natural rock slides (a la Swiss Family Robinson), and great lookout spots, although getting him to join will prove to be difficult!  He will, however, send one of his dogs with you as a faithful guide.

The days are easy to while away here, with such easy going beach activities as frisbee, soccer, or a friendly volleyball tournament for the motivated, or lounging under sun shades for the unmotivated.  For a respite from the heat of the sand you can relocate 10 steps back from the beach to your bungalows, where reading, catching up on journal entries and getting reacquainted with your hammock are popular pastimes.  Floating in the clear water or battling the persistent waves is a great way to spend a few hours, depending on the mood of the temperamental South China Sea.  Your bungalows are handmade from bamboo and thatch woven by Sylvio himself, and a more genuine down to earth resort does not exist anywhere in Vietnam or the world.  Sylvio’s paradise can quickly become your paradise, as days can quickly stretch into weeks here, and weeks into months.  Many residents end up staying so long they have rooms named after them sooner or later.  

Being a Canadian resident, Sylvio also understands the importance of a good Caesar, and will go out of his way to provide Free & Easy Travelers who have been craving such drinks for weeks with a little taste of home.  True Clamato and vodka with ice and lime water, who could ask for more on a hot afternoon?  The meals are also healthy and plentiful, with breakfast options of eggs, pancakes, noodle soup, and french toast (I personally recommend the pancakes with smashed fruit), while lunches and dinners consist of 4 dishes and a bowl of rice – nothing unhealthy, everything delicious, not enough to make you too full or too little to leave you too hungry.  Delicious Vietnamese coffee is available after every meal for a treat to start the next part of your day.  The overwhelming feeling of the place is one where you can live happily and freely, chasing your dreams just as Sylvio has done in creating this slice of heaven.

When night time rolls around another side of jungle beach comes to light, with bonfires on the beach, we sit around enjoying the sweet rum (almost reminiscent of a rum and egg nog, hold the egg) or Saigon beers.  The rum is so good it’s dangerous – straight rum on ice is totally acceptable to the palate.  Guitars often find their way out to the beach as well, and travellers will dig their road-weary feet into the sand, having found a home amidst the music under the glittering stars.   The night occasionally escalates when Free & Easy party animals are about, and an unusually popular activity is waking up to the sunrise in a pile of beach dogs on the sand (not recommended before a few bottles of rum are consumed).

However you end up on the beach in the morning, a sunrise is not to be missed at some point during your stay here.  My favourite bungalow is one with some sparse thatch facing towards the ocean, so that at 5:30 every morning you are awakened with the orange light of the rising sun spoiling across your pillow.  One such morning I wake earlier than usual, climb out of bed and head to the beach, not a soul in sight.  As I sit on the beach, accompanied by my faithful beach dog friends, I hear more than see the waves crashing and breaking on the shoreline, one dark row after the next.  The stars wink out one by one as the sky gradually brightens, making way for the sun slowly lifting itself lazily out of the distant ocean horizon, as if it were staying at Jungle Beach itself.  The orange and pink colours play lazily against the hazy clouds, lighting the distant mist covered mountains that laid watch over this quiet paradise all night.

free and easy sunrise

As the sun begins to peek through the clouds on the horizon, the plain truth dawns on me.  Life’s not a jungle…life’s a beach!

Jeff Emmett is a wordsmith adventure associate for Free & Easy.  His travels take him mostly to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam.  As well as working from home in Ontario heading up marketing in Eastern Canada.

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Free & Easy Riders! The Hai Van Pass in Vietnam on a hog.

Vietnam is a country that cannot be appreciated in all its glory unless you experience it from behind the handlebars of a motorcycle.  It is for this exact reason that Free & Easy Traveler has teamed up with the Easy Riders in the central highlands of Vietnam to provide an experience like no other in this country dominated by two wheelers – The Free & Easy Riders!  Twenty-two Free & Easy Travelers hop on the back of twenty-two bikes (driven by professional drivers, of course) to head up the Hai Van Pass from Hoi An to Hue – one of the most scenic strips of coastline Vietnam has to offer.  This won’t be like riding on the back of a tiny street moped or crotch rocket where you cling to the seat back or the driver for fear of falling off, we will be exploring the coast relaxed on the back of some genuine road hogs.  With your backpack strapped on the bike behind you to lean back against, you feel as comfy as if you were sitting in your lazy boy back home…sans foot rest.  
With most of Vietnam’s major traffic (transport trucks, busses, cars, etc) passing through the recently constructed Hai Van tunnel through the mountain to save travel time, the Hai Van Pass is a section of Highway 1 that is blissfully free of the notorious highway traffic Vietnam often experiences.  As you travel along a spur of the Annamite mountain range jutting into the South China sea, you will view some of the most stunning coastal views available in Vietnam.

The Hai Van Pass hugs this coastline for 21 km

This part of the country is also steeped in history, both ancient and recent.  It was the Hai Van Pass that served as the naturally occurring and easily defendable southern border of China during the Han dynasty invasion, and was also the site of the kingdom that eventually formed the medieval country of Champa.  To this day, lookout towers and cannon fortifications can still be seen keeping silent watch over the ocean, long quieted testaments to the war with the United States a few decades ago.  Resentment over the

atrocities committed here is almost non-existent, contrary to commonexpectation.  Why should there be resentment – they won!  Thankfully, foreigners of all nationalities are warmly welcomed across the country, with more than a little curiosity (especially towards dreadlocks), and although I cringe a little every time I see an American flag, this is a new generation and a new era of cooperation and prosperity.  But I still wouldn’t mess with a Vietnamese person over anything!

Our trip over the Hai Van Pass wouldn’t be complete without a few exciting stops.  First to Elephant Springs, a delightful natural water park formed by a stream running over and down a series of rock ledges forming pools, waterfalls, and natural rock slides just begging to be explored by an eager traveller.  Named for a rock mysteriously carved by the hand of Mother Nature to resemble an elephant, this is a place that can’t be missed by any adventurer!  Enterprising Vietnamese have built bamboo huts out on the rocks extending shade right to the lapping waters of the clear, refreshing rock pools, so you can relax and enjoy a cold beer on a rice mat in the sun or in the shade.

After a hot day on the back of a hog this is the most refreshing water in the world.

When you are energized for a dip, jump into the spring water to wash off the heat of the day and the dust of the road less travelled.  After a few hours quenching our thirst at Elephant Springs, our crew hits the road again, this time headed for Marble Mountain.  So named for the quarries that ancient Vietnamese used to mine their marble from for sculptures, local artisans now acquire their marble from China and leave this mountain well enough alone for it’s view over Danang and the nearby ocean.  We traverse the stairs to the top of the mountain, and find some old caverns to clamber through, slipping our way through smooth marble tunnels and ending up at the top of the mountain with a great view over the surrounding coast and countryside.  We relax for a cool iced tea and some harrowing war stories  from the ladies who sold them to us (yes, even the ladies were part of the war effort in a big way!), and gaze out at the land that was so much different from what it is now just one generation ago.  We have much to be thankful for, growing up where and when we did in a peaceful nation.  Making our way carefully back down the mountain (that marble can be slippery!), we find our trusty drivers and mount our metal steeds for the final leg of our journey.

Braving the traffic of the once again busy Highway 1, we pass through the industrial city of Danang and on towards Hue, the ancient capital of Vietnam.  We arrive in style, a twenty-two man strong biker gang pulling up in front of our hotel.   The happy, weary travellers dismount with another perspective to consider and another story to share.  Perhaps tonight, over a pitcher of beer with fellow backpackers!
By now a few hundred lucky people have been lucky enough to have Jeff Emmett (the writer of this blog) as a guide in countries like Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and of course Vietnam!  For more info on what to expect on a F&E Vietnam adventure check out this short video! The F&E Vietnam Experience! For more information check out our site!
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Dancing with the giants!

The Rice Terraces of Batad!

Underrated, overlooked, unknown are just some of the words that come to mind when you’re speaking about the Philippines.  Incredible, picturesque, adrenaline-rushed is what actually comes to my mind. Let’s see if I can prove this!  Take week one so far, spending 2 days hiking the northern rice terraces of Baaue and Batad -A Unesco World Heritage site and currently one of the 8 wonders of the world! Then hopping over to a remote beach on the island of Catanduanes where we spent 3 days surfing the “Majestic” surfbreak. Only to extend our excitement on the neighboring island at a place called the CWC Wakeboard Complex. Here we spent two days of action packed wakeboarding, with some downtime spent on a makeshift wipeout obstacle course! For us Canadians who watch the hilarious show back home, the competition was on!

Wake Boarding at CWC

Sore, stiff, some a lil’ banged up…but knew we had to suck it up in our next destination.
Donsol….a whale shark breeding ground aka a whale shark heaven! A place where travelers from all over migrate to, in hopes coming face to face with these gentle giants which are known as the largest fish in the world. Locals here say it’s not a matter of whether you see one or not…it’s simply how many will you see. A few people had no idea what to expect, but for the rest including myself this was just another check off the infamous bucket list and fulfilling a childhood dream!

The beautiful beaches of Catanduanes.

The night before the big day, we all get settled in our new surroundings staying in little beach huts on a unique looking stretch of black sand. Couldn’t have asked for a better view while I stood on the shoreline covered in goosebumps just staring at the ocean overthinking tomorrow’s possible outcomes – perhaps seeing just a glimpse of one in the distance, hopping on ones back and riding it to the open sea, or just not seeing one at all!   We were all well aware we needed a solid nights sleep, but I found myself wide-eyed going over what could be the coolest day I’ve experienced yet.

Let’s fast forward 8 hours later and our group of 20 were being separated into 4 groups of five as we stepped onto our 20 foot oddly shaped sailboats.  We were equipped with 1 captain, 2 whale shark spotters, a guide, snorkel mask and fins.  Now our FNEZ fleet of vessels were off and it was game time! Our guide explains to us a few rules and instructions to follow, which is all going in one ear and out the other. The only thing I can think about is getting the hell in the water. We hadn’t been motoring for much more then 6 minutes maybe 300 meters offshore when the first sighting takes place. Our captain seems a little slow on his reaction time, which ends up resulting in our first strike. 0 for 1.  The captain decides to sort of just troll in the close proximity in hopes the creature will re-surface. Well sure enough less then 30 seconds later we are all hauling on the gear and this time actually entering the water. We quickly swim out with our guide but to no fail we are once again too late. The beast has again submerged and headed to the depths. Climbing back on to the ship we can’t help but feel a little disappointed especially when we look over at Mel and Madison’s boat and they are pretty much having a dance party in celebration of witnessing both whale shark encounters. I can’t lie and say we werent a little annoyed  and a tad bit envious, but of course we kept positive and knew our time would come.
Positivity can only last so long though as we took notice off in the distance as a third encounter was taking place. We were much too far to even attempt the jaunt over, because by that time the fish would have been well out of our reach. This had definitely left us 5 disheartened, and silent. Not too much chit chat going on between us, and some real sour faces. I think a few of us were questioning our crew and there work ethics. “did we get the trainee boat”?


Roughly 2 hours had passed by now and we all felt maybe it was time to pack it in and take our losses. We were 0-3 and Even our guide said to us “sorry guys, we can’t guarantee anything”.  Blank stares by all as we are all about to accept his words, when I could feel a slight rumble of the engine, even a few words exchanged between our captain and guide. The rumble was becoming a little more noticeable and their words a little louder. Sure enough our left spotter pointed his finger into the horizon and we were off!  Our boat was pretty much neck and neck with another as we were racing to get first dibs.  Our guide was shouting “get your gear on, GET YOUR GEAR ON”. So many emotions going through your head. Excitement, nervousness, and flustered as all hell. Tripping over each other, mixing up each other’s fins…scaling the boat frantically looking for my mask…as i realized it was still on my head from the past two disappointing hours. We make it there just slightly ahead of the other boat, as our guide has us lined up in single file along the port side. He counts 1…2…3, and we roll in swimming as hard as we can 20 meters infront of us. Each of us knowing there is an over 20-tonne, school bus sized fish beneath us. Out of breathe, but running purely on adrenaline our guide yells “HEAD UNDER, LOOK DOWN” our heads dip and just stare at the ocean floor. Not one of us can see anything “where the hell is it”? I’m thinking. Then it happened, out of the corner of my right eye this dark shadow emerged and began to take form. Not below me, not above me…staring me directly in the face only a foot away was a 7 meter whale shark My body immediately froze and I couldn’t muster a simple thought….except for “HOLY SHIT” what seemed like an eternity was really only seconds and I got out of it’s path and just gazed at the most beautiful creature I had ever seen. It swam past us so gracefully without a fear in it’s head. The 5 of us along with a few other swimmers who have now caught up began to just swim along side her all the while touching it, taking photos and some video attempts. we had to pick up our pace to keep up with the shark, people now scrambling and bumping into each other to get that national geographic type shot. Some of us snorkel dove underneath it to get a glimpse of it’s underside, others were trying to get in front of it to stare into its eyes and some were just trying their best to stay away from getting knocked out by it’s tree trunk sized tail!
The whole interaction seems to last between 3-4 mins. The whaleshark eventually got bored with us and dove too far down for any of us to catch and she was out of sight. That’s when we all surfaced with ear to ear grins, followed by highfives…shouting and hollering!!! “FINALLY” we all  start to take in what just happened and realize what we just witnessed. Our guide then instructed us to get back in the boat, cuz we need to find more. So we listen and sure enough we repeated those same events 5 more times. We were on fire, seeing even a larger one our third time and what we figured to be a more adolescent size one our 5th sighting. We were now the boat dancing, laughing, and just over the top with something beyond excitement! Our day what started out as a huge let down finished up with a total of 6 sightings in 3 hours and happy, estatic customers. Not sure the best words to describe today’s events…once in a lifetime experience, amazing maybe even epic!!! However you view it, I think it’s fair to say this little hidden gem called the  Philippines IS all it’s cracked up to be and should definitely move up on your list of desirable destinations…it needs to be done.  we aren’t all lucky or fortunate enough to see something like this. But with Free and Easy it’s just another day at the office :)

Some shaky and excited footage of exactly what\’s described above!

This article was written by Sean Murphy who is currently well into his second season of leading Thailand trips for Free & Easy.  He caught this footage while training to lead the Philippines.  

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Jungle Trekkin on the LTC – A breath of fresh air

As a backpacker in Southeast Asia, we often get accustomed to bustling, noisy roads and thick smog in the cities, or ever present tourists and persistent touts and scams on the islands.  No doubt there is magic in the air in all of these places, a tangible excitement of people exploring a new place and trying new things, but sometimes it is nice to get away from it all and experience unspoiled nature in its true form.  For me, nowhere does that quite like the jungle trek in Northern Thailand.  This is a part of the country that has been settled by minority tribes fleeing oppression from Burma decades ago, and until recently these tribes were largely left to their own and not counted on any official Thai census.  Lately however, there has been more integration between these tribes and the citizens of Thailand – many young villagers will move to the cities nearby like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, looking for work or other young people their age.  Many often end up working as trek guides from the city back to their own villages, because they are the experts who have walked the trails and lived off the  jungle’s sustenance their whole lives.

A young girl from a tribal village

Although there is much more contact between the minority tribes and the outside world today, the tribal village way of life has largely remained untouched.  Still living in wooden or bamboo longhouses, cooking over open fires, tending their own fields by hand and ox and raising livestock right under their stilt houses, you will still find the locals teeth stained red by the local narcotic, betel nuts – a quaint sight indeed!  Most of these villages have little to no electricity, although a government initiative to provide these villages with solar power has done much to improve the quality of life in some of these villages.  Many do not have a single vehicle besides cart and oxen, which is understandable as there are no roads that run to or from these villages.
It is to one of these villages that our Free & Easy LTC groups arrive and spend 3 days enjoying the beauty of untouched jungle, hiking from tribe to tribe, stopping in tiny villages of 20 people living in 6 or 7 thatch huts for a lunch break or overnight respite.  Our hike ultimately ends at my favourite village, with a long outdoor table where we sit together and eat delicious local dishes prepared by our gracious hosts.  This is followed by a fire in the pit on the deck with a grand view of the stars.  A bottle (or two…or three…) of notorious ‘happy water’ will often make an appearance, which is the local moonshine derived from fermented rice.  Or as some clever locals call it ‘happy today, not so happy tomorrow water’.  An occasional treat is when the chief of the village (who is always a shot ahead of the rest of us into that happy water) collects the villagers and asks them to don their formal tribal garb and put on a traditional dance to bamboo wind instruments.  You feel instantly transported into the rich past of these people who have braved the perils of the jungle their whole existence, and I find a certain affinity with people who can be happy with so little material comfort. Refreshing, to say the least.  Just try not to get motion sickness with all that time travel.

Nighttime fun in the village

Good times tend to follow hot on the heels of a few bottles of happy water, and more than a few merry villagers will join us by the fire with some well weathered guitars to serenade us (and  encourage us to join in!) with admirable attempts at Beatles tunes, considering most of them barely speak English to begin with.  Cries of “ABUUUJAAAAAHHH!!!” resonate through the jungle as this catch-all word of the Lahu tribe (it means hello, goodbye, thank you, and more) is a favourite of the guides and catches on quickly with the group, especially after a few happy water shots.   In fact, I have personally witnessed a half minute phone call where ‘abujah’ was the only word spoken!  ”Abujah?  Aaaabujah.  ABUYAH.  Abujahabujahabujah. Abuujah?  AAABUyah.  Abuyahabuya.”  *click*  Really?  Yeah, that just happened.  We wrap up the night by the fire with a few last tunes, and all retire to the tribal longhouse where we sleep in one huge room on mats on the floor, in true jungle fashion.  Talk about a slumber party!  The whispered ghost stories and laughs continue late into the night.
We arrived at this village on the backs of elephants wading down river or plodding through the jungle, and we will leave by the jungle’s natural highway:  the raging river.  Industrious villagers make short work of a few dozen bamboo shafts and lash them together expertly to withstand the trials of the river.  Then they cut down some thinner bamboo shoots 10 to 15 feet in length, hand them to the hardy travellers in our groups (who are having enough trouble keeping their balance on the raft let alone steering it!) and off we go, like a Venetian gondola on steroids!

Tribal engineering at it's finest.

With nothing to hold on to but the raft under your feet, the swirling river can be an adrenaline filled adventure!  Rocks, rapids, and tight turns abound as you and your crew of 5 set sail on the swift current.  Waves crashing over the boat up to your knees and even your thighs at times leave you wondering if these jungle boys put enough bamboo under you to keep you afloat all the way back to civilization!  Fear not though, crazy jungle boy Boca has been doing this his whole life and will not only build your raft to some untold jungle specification to get you there every time, he will also risk life and limb throughout your journey to keep you entertained the whole way!  From stunt backflips and tricks with his 15 foot bamboo pole to pirating other bamboo vessels and knocking their hungover captains into the water, leaving their crews to fend for themselves until their cap climbs back aboard, hilarity ensues…as long as you are the one on Boca’s boat!  Well if you aren’t out here to get a breath of fresh air…you will at least get a taste of fresh river water!
Back on dry land, we grab a quick lunch of Phad Thai and head home, with a new perspective on the world to ponder on the drive back to civilization.
Jeff Emmett has been leading trips for Free & Easy for 5 years now.  His area of expertise is Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand.  He is also a talented writer and has contributed to our blog several times.
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What it means to be a traveler by Madison Schwartz

Our experience as travelers imbues itself in everything that we do. But what do we learn, really, when we take to the road and come home once again? Travelers will often say that traveling “changed them”, and certainly it has, but how? Here are a few of the lessons that I’ve learned while on the road these last five years. I’ve changed, and I don’t mean that I now dress in homespun and wear my hair a little longer, I mean that I’ve learned some lessons along the way that I hope all travelers have a chance to learn. Many of these lessons fade when we get home; this is inevitable. But pieces of them remain, and embed themselves into our character making us slightly different AND hopefully, slightly better members of both our own society, and the societies we visit. “Being” a traveler tends to mean certain things, let’s explore what some of these are.

Travelers tend to compare experiences and journeys which tend to be less quantifiable than the accumulation of material goods. Part of this comparison comes from necessity; most travelers only have a backpack of possessions, which tends to put us on a much more level playing field in the “who owns what” arena (MacBook envy still exists en masse). While this experience-centric style of valuation is often quickly eroded once one gets home, living in this way, even for a short period of time helps us realize that it is possible to live a less materialistic way of life. An important realization for many of us on our first trip is just how happy many people around the world are with less. I don’t mean to sound naive, and I’m not, but there’s a lot of truth behind this observation. I’m not going to renounce material good, I like nice things, but it’s also refreshing to realize that it’s possible to be happy with less. A traveler covets certain possessions: a good book, a bottle of clamato from home, an iPod full of music, and doesn’t have the ability to buy new iPods every five months when one gets released.  The trade and barter scene is alive and well on the traveler circuit too, and once in a while it just feels good to give a t shirt or a bracelet to a new friend. Living this way is good for the soul, and might just prevent an impulse shop or two once home.

Anyone who has traveled by themselves for any length of time knows that it can get very lonely, very fast. For the traveler, making new friends becomes a necessity, one that can lead to interesting and new relationships that we might never have a chance to experience at home. As clichéd as it might sound, traveling teaches us to treat everyone as equals, because the people around you are, regardless of where they’re from, the people you will share your journey with. Traveling gives us the chance to make friends from other cultures, and, what a wonderful realization it is when you finally conclude that people are people no matter where you go. We have hopes, dreams, fears, jokes and journeys to share. One of the things I cherish most about the opportunity I’ve had to travel is the local friendships I’ve made. My Thai, Filippino, and Nicaraguan friends are as near and dear to me as anyone. What changes about the traveler is the way they begin to appreciate all people from all walks of life, and to carry that attitude back home with them. Increased tolerance is a gift that most travelers gain, and as frustrated we might get at trying to operate in another country, it gives us a little bit of insight as to how frustrating it must be to newcomers to our own country.

Along this same line, most travelers become a little bit more “worldly”. In the good sense, not in the “Ya man, the government should do something about those people man” sense, but simply in the sense that we are able to view and regard a bit more of the big picture. While viewing poverty, political oppression and civil strife are not akin to living under these things, a traveler gains important insight into what it must be like to live in that way. While I don’t consider coming home and trumpeting off to your friends about first world guilt any sort of learning, I do believe that the traveler who understands that there are many different hands dealt in this world is able to use that knowledge to shape his or her own world a little bit differently.

Of course other things change too, we get stupid tattoos and wear gaudy jewelry and learn to go days without showering, and this too defines us as travelers. But what really matters is that, as travellers we’re given a unique opportunity to be certain things: to be a little more tolerant, to be a little more open and kind, and to be a little less materialistic and naïve. Be these things. Be them where you are and where you’re going and when you get back from wherever “going” is.  Be a traveler long after the backpack is hung up and you take off that silly necklace; be a traveler in your day to day existence: it’ll carry you through till the next time that necklace goes back on.

Traveler - Madison Schwartz wearing his traveler pants, traveler necklace and traveler hat...traveling on a camel.

Madison Schwartz has been leading trips for F&E in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and The Philippines for who knows how long.  Besides being really tall he’s whip smart and deadly funny.  This posting was taken from his own personal blog.

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A World Class Education – by Jeff Emmett

Bangkok - a booming metropolis.

Travelling can and will teach you a lot of things…more than even you know. From the moment you step off a plane in a foreign country, your senses are bombarded by stimuli that are different from what you are accustomed to. A mere glance at the landscape with all its accompanying sounds and smells will give you an inherent feeling of the place that you would not gain from reading an encyclopedia on your destination. Often, the feeling I get from people entering Bangkok is an “…Oh.” Not many people expect a sprawling metropolis, massive skyscrapers in every direction, giant billboards and honking, state of the art Toyota (oh, aren’t they all) cabs. No, Thais do not live in mud huts. Yes, they have running water. Computers do exist in Thailand. These are the kinds of things that you take in nearly instantaneously without even realizing it, and they are invaluable in assessing the cultural norms and how they compare to your own back home.

Then there are the kinds of things you can actively learn from travelling – cultural displays like dance, eating habits or various historical monuments and museums – all of which offer you insight into what makes a different culture tick. I enjoyed this quote from a book I was just reading about the Vietnam War – a perfect example of how a cultural difference meant all the world. “To Asians steeped in Confucian concepts, time is an endless river flowing from an infinitely regenerative source. Time to Westerners is always precious; to the Oriental it can be spent with generosity.” It even goes so far as to compare calendars in the West with calendars in the East: ours are linear, with pages that begin and end…a year is a long time.In Eastern calendars, time is a wheel with no beginning or end. It goes on to say, “Quick victory is a Western concept. All the Vietnamese had to do was not lose.” They were patient, and it worked. But I digress.

For those out there who have travelled far and wide, it is all too easy to follow the rote tourist route, see what you came to see, and climb up on that high horse and say you’ve done it all. And maybe you’re right.  But what is even more important about travelling is what you learn. Even if you go off the beaten path and do it your own way – if you aren’t applying the things you learn to improve yourself or the world around you, there is another opportunity missed.

Travelling for the sake of travelling is just like any other hobby. What makes it unique is there are often more opportunities to take what you see around you and use it to better yourself. Look around you, at the things other people do through their unique personalities or through their different cultural perspective. Take those things you like and make them a part of yourself. Remove those habits that you hold on to that you dislike. Create your own culture and cultivate your personality to be how you want it to be. No one else has as much power to do that as you!

Blogger and F&E guide, Jeff Emmett, wandering around Vietnam expanding his horizons.

Whether it be exercising your body or your mind, testing your ideas against someone else’s, helping someone in need, or contemplating your purpose in the world to better clarify your goals, make every day count. We only gots so many of em. And travelling is one of my favourite ways to find new ways of improvement!

The name of the game is self-improvement, and if a day goes by where you haven’t learned something new or gained a new perspective or changed your life or another’s in any way, was that day well spent?

 

Jeff Emmett’s travels have led him into a job as a guide, marketer and blogger for Free & Easy.  His specialties are Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand where he takes lucky group members around to amazing places helping them to “educate themselves”.  There’s a test at the end of each trip ;)

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F&E’s Instagram account – from the archives of Chad Smith.

This gallery contains 45 photos.

Chad Smith studied photography before he joined his brother and cousin running Free & Easy Traveler.  How fortunate that this photographer has been bouncing around designing new trips and running old ones.  It’s a never ending source of great subjects. … Continue reading

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A very “altered perspective” at the “Future Light Children’s Home” in Thailand

Kevin playing with a couple of kids from Future Light

“I’m heading up to my Orphanage in Mae Sot for a few days,” said my friend Jenn, “you should come and check it out with me!”

“I’m really sorry,” I replied, “I have a lot of work to do, I don’t think I can spare the time.” I hated myself for saying it before I was even finished, after all, I have the luxury of working remotely from a laptop where ever I may be. So, the alternative of holing up in a small apartment in Bangkok for a week obviously seemed ludacris in comparison to the opportunity to explore a new part of Thailand I had never been to. And also get a first hand view of an orphanage Jenn had started form scratch 3 and half years ago after finding 8 children abandoned in a shamble of a shack on the Thai/Burmese border. “I’m in!” I said, “I’ll figure out a way to make it work around my schedule.” I wasn’t fully aware at this point, but my perspective on what was truly important, had just begun to shift.

I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect arriving in Mae Sot, but I was pleasantly surprised to find a very comfortable guesthouse, with air-con, and WiFi, as well as plenty of good restaurants and a city, I later learned, that had a population of more the 100,000 people! This was a far cry from the rural village I had envisioned, how bad could the situation at the orphanage be? I’d soon find out as we hopped on some scooters and drove out towards the Burmese border.

Jennifer Lo (founder of Future Light) with some of the children.

Fifteen minutes later we pulled through a small gate and into a little dirt patch of land with 3 buildings situated on it. Technically it falls in no man’s land between the Thai and Burma border, and it’s next door neighbor to an illegal sweatshop. Burma is basically  on the other side of a field at the end of the short block they’re on. I was told it’s not uncommon for them to hear outbreaks of gun fire and the occasional grenade blast as well. Very surreal surroundings to find yourself in, let alone to find yourself suddenly confronted by swarms of smiling children rushing from the buildings shouting “HALLO JENNY! HALLO JENNY!!” It was an instant shock to see so many children, all smiling and jumping around, 39 of them to be exact. In just over 3 years the “Future Light Home School” had grown rapidly from 8 children to 39! How is it possible that there are so many orphaned children in one small area?!

Myself and Vickie, another of Jenn’s friends who had come up with us from Bangkok, were quickly introduced to the kids as “Jenny’s new friends” and we were greeted with shouts of “HALLO, HALLO!!” But we had arrived in the middle of the day, meaning it was still class time for the kids, and they had some arts projects that needed attending to before they were done for the day. So Jenn gave us the grand tour of the orphanage. There was the new school building in the front, big enough for all the children, with a short pathway that led to the main house. Newly added to, and a huge improvement from the original bamboo shack the first 8 kids were found in, the main house is raised on stilts a few feet off the ground now, as is necessary for the annual flooding that happens every rainy season in parts of Thailand. Behind the main house is the new kitchen and eating area, it was hard to believe they didn’t have one before… how do you feed 39 kids without a proper kitchen!? In behind the kitchen was the back lot, still a dusty, dirt patch like the rest of the property, but big enough to one day have a proper football field for the kids as well as an undeveloped garden area further back as well. We were then introduced to Goan and Eeta, the house Dad and Mom. A young Burmese couple that live full time at the Orphanage with 2 of their own children, and care for everyone as though they were their own. I expressed to Goan how amazing it was, what he and his wife were doing, and he simply replied, “Everyone is family, everyone is the same.” They were his own, simple as that.

The new kitchen!

That was an incredibly selfless thing to hear from someone who had so little for himself to begin with. I remember later that night talking with Jenn about the immense burden that Goan and Eeta had taken upon themselves. Then Jenn told me, “Goan is only 28 years old, and Eeta younger still.” Unbelievable. Seeing first hand the situation they were in and clearly understanding the need that those children were in, I still couldn’t fathom putting myself in that position, I don’t know that I’d survive a month, let alone years!

If you can envision a small compound over-filled with children from 1 or 2 years old all the way up to mid teens, you would naturally expect there to be a fair amount of arguing and fighting… but not here at Future Light. The entire time I was there  all I saw was happiness in those children. They helped each other, they studied together, they slept together, ate together, did everything together, always together… and yet they never fought. An impossible feat for a group of selfish western kids to perform for a couple hours even. Maybe it was their one common bond, something you wouldn’t think to be very strong, but abandonment was something they all had in common, even if some of them were still too young to understand it.

There’s Monday, a small boy of 5 years, with such charisma and charm that he had me pushing him on the swing set barely 5 minutes after arriving the second day. He was named for the day of the week that he was found on, abandoned in a field at 2 years old. He’ll never know if he was ever even given a real name. Then there’s Hannah, who has been there for 3 years and is very ticklish and loves to laugh… especially so, when she learned I’m even more ticklish than she is. I had to run away from her because I was laughing so hard and I thought I might accidentally throw her across the room in an uncontrollable fit of tickle spasms, hahaha! I later found out she cried for the first 5 months straight that she was at the orphanage. How much heart break does it take to cause a child to cry for that long?  Another brother and sister still, were found abandoned under a bridge. I would have thought that “Finding” one abandoned child would be pretty much the most unbelievable thing to happen, but apparently in some parts of the world it’s unfortunately quite common place.

Some seriously stoked kids with their new dvd collection.

Although I was only there for 3 days, the entire experience was incredibly intense and inspiring. To see how much Jenn and her group of volunteers had accomplished so far, but also how much more was needed. To meet Goan and Eeta, who had given so much of themselves already and had created a home of happiness for so many abandoned children. And to witness firsthand, the resilience of those children in such an unimaginable and unfortunate situation, thriving, learning, living and loving, as a family. I had to do more, so I ended up donating 7000 Baht on behalf of myself and Free & Easy Traveler. With this small amount of money, Jenn later told me they would be able to hire a full time employee for 3 months to help with maintenance, cleaning, and gardening, as well as 5 more, much needed garbage bins and garbage disposal services for 4 months! The act of donating to a cause in need makes a person feel pretty good in itself, but it was doubly amazing to know firsthand exactly the impact that was made due to my efforts and the donation. This was easily one of the best travel experiences I’ve ever had and I hope to be able to revisit the orphanage multiple times in years to come.

Kevin Bernardin has done more than a few stints of leading trips for F&E in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia.  When he’s not doing that he’s overseeing group leaders and taking care of group members prior to departure.  

* for more information on the Future Light Homeschool and how to get involved, contact Jennifer Lo on facebook www.facebook.com/Futurelightkids
or send her an email at: futurelightkids@gmail.com.
You can also donate directly through Paypal, sending to the same email address.
The website is under construction but coming soon! www.futurelightkids.org

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A Month in Chiang Mai – by Tadd MacKenna

The entire summer when I was working hard back in Canada, I couldn’t help but day dream of the day I would be so lucky to come back to Thailand. Images of white sandy beaches, and stunning sunsets danced in my head all day long. But before I was to start this stint of back to back trips, I decided to spend a month in Chiang Mai studying the Thai language. So the islands would have to wait, and I would head straight to Thailand’s “Rose of the North” to learn a new language. But, I didn’t expect to learn so much more than just Thai.

Chiang Mai is a city unlike any other I’ve visited in Southeast Asia. I like to describe it as big city with a small town vibe. Life slows down in Thailand, and I found that to be even more so in the North. My one month in the city felt like it very easily could have been six. The guesthouse staff became my family, my classmates became close friends, and the street bar; my local pub. My time between classes was spent at muay thai fights, long boarding around the old city moat, in street markets, visiting temples, and even expanding my knowledge of Thailand, it’s language and it’s people.

Within the first couple weeks, I was welcomed to help my guesthouse’s family celebrate Keun Baan Mai(literally “build new house”) , which is a traditional Buddhist celebration that blesses a new home and it’s inhabitants. After months of hard work building, renovating and re-constructing their home, no one in the family was able to sleep in the house until this ceremony was performed. So they invited nine monks from the local temple over and decorated their new place. The home was filled with colourful ribbons, about 200 candles, banana leafs, coconuts, food offerings, a Buddha statue and three long painted sticks standing up in the middle of the room. The three sticks are to symbolize the three characteristics of the Buddist religion, impermanence, suffering and non-self.

 Also, there was a long white string tied all the way around the entire house and ran into each room and then between my fingers and through the fingers of everyone else who was at the ceremony. Than it ran to the top of the stick tripod and down into 5 strands and rested on top on the heads of the five people who would live in the house. This string connects everyone, and everything in the home. Early in the morning, the monks arrived and it was underway. We all sat together while the monks chanted together, read scriptures, and blessed the house to free it of any bad spirits, bad luck, and to apologize to the spirits of the building for modifying it. While I couldn’t understand the lot of what they were saying, I just did what everyone else did and tried to be as respectful as I could. The synchronized chants of the nine saffron clad men was wonderful, melodic and soothing. We all sat on our knees, closed our eyes, bowed and prayed for about 1 hour, all the while holding the same long piece of string.

The monks sprinkled us with holy water, continued chanting, and at the end they pulled off a small piece of the string and tied it around each of our wrists for good luck. When it was complete, as per Thai tradition, we served the monks a meal of rice, soup, fish and vegetables to thank them, and the house was now ready for occupation.

Intrigued and wanting to learn some more about the religion, I decided I would go straight to the source. Wat Suan Dok, a temple and Buddhist University in Chiang Mai, has a wonderful program called “Monk Chat” which allows for an open discussion between tourists and young novice monks. A short tuk-tuk ride away, at the temple I met five or six novice monks eager to practice their English and answer some of my questions. We talked about where we were from, sports, girls, and they even helped explain Keun Baan Mai to me. All about the same age as I am, it was like meeting new people at a bar, not monks in a temple.

Aside from hanging out with monks, I was sure to try and experience as many new things within the city as I could. I wanted to branch out from where I had been in the past while leading LTC trips, and try to find new places to take my future groups. My days were filled cruisin’ the streets on my longboard and I got a tonne of attention from the Thai people who had never seen a skateboard quite like mine. I often stopped and let tuk-tuk drivers give it a try, only to watch them bail on the concrete surrounded by the laughter of their friends. In exchange I would often get a free tow behind a tuk-tuk and arrive at my next destination a lot quicker than I would have with the old kick-push.

I kept myself entertained in the night-time, by cruising over to “Backpackers Alley”, which is a small lane of pubs and bars, where reggae and ska are the genre of choice. As a little bit of a live music junkie, I was right at home listening to lively saxophones, trombones, and electric guitars blare out covers of Sublime, Bob Marley, and ska versions of classic rock hits. If I wasn’t down in the alley, I often found myself practicing my colours in Thai, shouting “Si Dang!” (red) or “Si Fah!” (blue) at a local Muay Thai stadium.

Muay Thai, is Thailand’s national sport, and if you think us Canadians go wild for ice hockey, just wait until you check out a muay thai fight in Thailand. The atmosphere is fantastic! The stadium is hot and sticky, loud shouts in both Thai and English tickle your ear drums, and the aroma of years worth of blood, sweat and tears oozes from the stained ring. A place where gambling is not uncommon, the audience is passionate about the results of each fight. Children as young 10 years of age open the event with the first fight. Never straying far from tradition, each fighter performs a quick prayer in each corner of the ring in hopes of a victorious and safe fight. Traditional music composed of horns, drums and cymbals is performed live as the fighters exchange flurries of elbows, kicks, knees, and fists. Known as the martial art of eight limbs, fighters from around South East Asia and the world flock to Chiang Mai to train and perfect their skills in the city that is the muay thai centre of the world. Every stadium in Chiang Mai offers an array of fights, from lady fights, to international fighters, even the occasional bare-knuckle fight! Each fight honorable and traditional, yet vicious.

I love Chiang Mai, and I can’t wait to go back there with my next LTC group. There is so much to do in Chiang Mai, that everyday can be as busy, or as relaxing as you want. If you want to go bungee jumping, cuddle with baby tigers, watch a muay thai fight, or just kick back with a cold beer Chang and listen to live ska music, you can do it all in Chiang Mai, and at your own pace. While strolling through the Sunday Night Market, I found a t-shirt with a quote that embodied the city as a whole; “Chiang Mai: It does not mean a place where noise, hard work and trouble don’t exist, but to be in the midst of all of those things, and still be able to find peace in your heart.”

Tadd MacKenna divides his year by spending half of it guiding trips throughout Thailand, Laos and Cambodia for Free & Easy.  And the other half in the Canadian wilderness planting trees.  He has an abundance of good karma if anyone needs to borrow some.

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We have voted on our top 12 videos for the showdown round!

THE 2 MINUTE VIDEO SHOWDOWN! 
12 VIDEOS.
9 SHOWDOWNS.
1 FREE 20-DAY TRIP (INCLUDING FLIGHT) TO ANY F&E DESTINATION!
Starting THUR. NOV. 3….with head-to-head match ups! 6 battles over 12 days.

Our judges have selected their favorite 12 video submissions, and starting Thurs. Nov. 3rd we will match 2 videos up against each other, and ask our fans to vote on their favourite!

Round 1: Nov 3rd – Nov. 15th

Voting will go on for 28 hours (9am to 1 pm MST the next day) in each battle, and the winner will advance to the next round.

Round 2: Nov. 16th – Nov. 21st
6 finalists will go head-to-head again, in 3 battles over 6 days.

Finals: Nov. 22nd – Nov. 23rd
The final 3 will be put up to 20 FNEZ judges to submit their 1st, 2nd and 3rd choices. (1st = 3 pts, 2nd = 2 pt, 3rd = 1 pt. Most points wins.)

Winner Announced: 9 am November 23rd

Shortlist

Alaina Nordin
Christa Sakalauskas
Darren Watt
Dusty Anderson – Home
Dusty Anderson – LTC
Iliana Quintanilla
Laura Ward
Lyndon Kusler #1
Matt Heatcoat – Escameca Shaka
Moorea Ottenbreit
Sarah Galloway
Teri Northey

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